2013 Puligny-Montrachet
France
Puligny Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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2017 - 2021
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"Very well balanced wines from healthy grapes" was Paul Pernot's description of his 2014s. "There wasn't much juice in the grapes, so we made less than in 2013. But our yields are never low." Both years have good acidity, he added, but there's more in 2014. And sugar levels in the grapes were high (around 13.5%), and some wines were not chaptalized. As is usually the case here, the malolactic fermentations of the 2014s had finished by December and the wines had been racked in late winter or early spring.
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Old pro Pernot is convinced that late picking was the key in 2013 (he began on September 30)."It was necessary to eliminate rotten grapes if you waited, but at least the fruit was ripe," he told me.Pernot used no new oak in 2013."With so little wine, it wasn't worth buying any new barrels," he explained.Yields for the village wines were around 50 hectoliters per hectare, according to Pernot, but around 40 for the crus.He owns a high percentage of old vines that are getting feebler, and thus he's generally been producing less wine in recent years.The 2013s had been sulfited and fined, then returned to barrel, two weeks before my visit.