1997 Puligny-Montrachet

Pernot describes 1998 as a good-sized crop in the village appellations but small in the premier crus, although the low crop level did not necessarily lead to greater intensity. The grand crus, he notes, were less affected by frost. Like a few of his neighbors, Pernot believes that the rains of early September helped to ripen the fruit following the very hot August conditions. This is a vintage to drink early, Pernot adds, but the wines are not less rich than the '97s. In fact, he adds, the two vintages are very much alike, with similar acidity levels. All the '98s were racked and fined in early spring, and were to have been bottled in late August. Pernot stirs the lees frequently until the end of alcoholic fermentation, then does a weekly batonnage until the malos finish. As a result of the April frost, which promised to cut production and thus reduce income on the wine Pernot still sells to negociants such as Drouhin, Pernot decided not to buy any new barrels for the '98 vintage. Interestingly, Pernot prefers his '97s to his '92s, as he finds the earlier set of wines a bit too high in acidity.