2010 Puligny-Montrachet

Veteran vigneron Paul Pernod, who has worked more than his share of vintages, categorizes 2011 and 2010 as "classic years, but with 2011 showing less depth," and describes 2009 and 2008 as "more extreme vintages, with more surmaturite." As is usually the case here, the 2011s had been in tank since February, after finishing their malos in December and January. (Louis/Dressner Selections, www.louisdressner.com; Atherton Wine Imports, www.awiwine.com; also brought into the U.S. as a Peter Vezan selection, www.vezanwine.wordpress.com and through Domaines & Saveurs/Jeanne-Marie de Champs)

Pernot was another Cote de Beaune vigneron who told me that while 2010 is a good vintage for white wines, it may be even better for reds. "The 2010s are better balanced than the 2008s and 2009s," said Pernot, "but that doesn't mean they're better. For example, the 2008s are more concentrated and powerful, and higher in acidity." Pernot started harvesting on the early side, on September 17, as his most important client Joseph Drouhin was afraid that rot would become a problem. Potential alcohol levels were in the 12.5% to 13% range, and the wines were chaptalized about half a degree. Pernot planned to bottle these wines in early August, as he usually does. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; Robert Chadderdon Selections, x000D New York, NY; also brought into the U.S. as a Peter Vezan selection and x000D through Domaines & Saveurs/Jeanne-Marie de Champs)