2012 Puligny-Montrachet
France
Puligny Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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Old pro Pernot is convinced that late picking was the key in 2013 (he began on September 30). "It was necessary to eliminate rotten grapes if you waited, but at least the fruit was ripe," he told me. Pernot used no new oak in 2013. "With so little wine, it wasn't worth buying any new barrels," he explained. Yields for the village wines were around 50 hectoliters per hectare, according to Pernot, but around 40 for the crus. He owns a high percentage of old vines that are getting feebler, and thus he's generally been producing less wine in recent years. The 2013s had been sulfited and fined, then returned to barrel, two weeks before my visit.
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In contrast to some of his colleagues on the Cote de Beaune, veteran Paul Pernot described 2012 as "on the classic side."The wines, he went on, are richer than the 2011s, "but the two vintages are similar in quality and style.The 2012s have a bit less acidity than the 2011s, and the balance of 2011 is almost perfect."The '12s had been racked and sulfited at least a month before my visit. (Louis/Dressner Selections, www.louisdressner.com; Atherton Wine Imports, www.awiwine.com; also brought into the U.S. as a Peter Vezan selection, www.vezanwine.wordpress.com and through Domaines & Saveurs/Jeanne-Marie de Champs)