2001 Puligny-Montrachet

Paul Pernot told me that the 2001 "is an excellent vintage as it is powerful yet with fine acid support and better than expected finesse. We had average yields, about the same as 2000 and sugars came in between 12.5 and 13%. The malos were leisurely but not necessarily any later than normal, at least not here though I hear some of my neighbors saying that they were late." Somewhat surprisingly, Pernot went on to observe that not only is 2000 better than 1999 but 2001 is better than 2000. My tastings confirm that 2000 and 2001 are indeed quite close in quality but when taken as a group, I give a small edge to the 2000s. The wines were bottled in September after a light fining and filtration and I tasted them in March. Atherton Wine Company, Atherton, CA; Burgundy Wine Company, New York, NY and Robert Chadderdon, New York, NY).

Pernot describes his young 2002s as very fat, powerful wines, more complete and more complex than his 2000s and 1999s. He described them as having "normal" acidity. They're richer than the 2001s, he went on, but the 2001s will be longer agers. As always, the malolactic fermentations finished early here, and the wines were fairly easy to taste at the beginning of June. Pernot, who owns a full three hectares of Puligny-Montrachet Folatieres and continues to sell off the majority of his production, told me that his parcel at the top of the hill rarely makes it into his own bottling, as this spot is partially shaded by fir trees and is thus too cool to allow the grapes to ripen thoroughly in most years. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; also brought into the U.S. as a Peter Vezan Selection and through Domaines et Saveurs/Jeanne-Marie de Champs)

Pernot describes his 2001s as concentrated wines with better acidity than the 2000s (4.2 to 4.3 grams per liter, compared to about 4 in 2000), thanks to a lower crop level. The malolactic fermentations were long and difficult in 2001, he added, in part due to the initially high acids. Pernot 2000s have turned out very well. These highly aromatic wines should offer early accessibility but age well. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; also brought into the U.S. as a Peter Vezan Selection and through Domaines et Saveurs/Jeanne-Marie de Champs)