2009 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

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This is a striking set of wines from Christian Serafin. It all begins and ends in the vineyards here, which is amply evident after a few minutes of conversation.

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Serafin ranks 2009 in the same quality league as past vintages like 1999, 1978 and 1959, although he admits that he could have picked some of his vines a bit earlier (he started on September 12). Grape sugars ranged from 13% to 13.6% and he did no chaptalization. Acidity levels at harvest were low, but the pHs of the crus are now in the reasonable 3.45 to 3.55 range, according to Serafin. The malos finished on the early side, during the first half of 2010. In fact, he noted, the 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin finished its secondary fermentation at the same time as the 2008.

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