2005 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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Christian Serafin rates 2006 between 2004 and 2005 in quality. "The wines were a bit acid at the start, but now they're more harmonious," he said. Serafin told me he did three separate crop-thinnings, and then used a vibrating table at harvest time to get rid of the smallest and the dried berries. These promise to be very pretty wines with very good rather than outstanding concentration. The more powerful 2005s here are sturdier wines: Serafin compares them to past vintages like 1995, 1985, 1978 and 1959. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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Christian Serafin is one of numerous winemakers I visited in November who believe that the 2005s will be agreeable all the time, "like the '99s." He compared the vintage to 1985 and 1978, and noted that the 1990s remained closed in the bottle for a good ten years. Serafin produced a "good full normal yield" in 2005, picking fruit with potential alcohol in the high 13% to 14% range. By the way, Serafin, who is older than he looks, hired Pierre Nawrocki, previously cellarmaster at Domaine Hudelot-Noellat and more recently at Domaine Frederic Esmonin. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)