2000 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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Christian Serafin leaves a few more grape bunches early on as insurance against late spring hail, then does a fairly serious green harvest to cut the crop. He also now pulls leaves on both sides of the vines. After doing a substantial saignee to concentrate the musts in 2000, Serafin told me, very little "bleeding" of the cuve was needed in 2001, only in the Gevrey villages But vintage 2001 could have used more sunshine, said Serafin, which would have given the wines a bit more fat. But, he added, they are nonetheless rather full-bodied wines. He compared the vintage to his '95s, which were concentrated but tannic in the early going. Barrel tastings here are always rather tricky, since Serafin uses a good bit of CO2 rather than sulfur, to keep his wines fresh-a strategy he repeats for the bottling. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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Interestingly, Serafin told me that the fruit in 2000 was even riper than that of the previous year (grape sugars went as high as 14% in his vines in Morey and Chambolle), but the pHs were slightly lower. As at a number of the better addresses in the village of Gevrey-Chambertin, Serafin 2000 cuvees are close to the '99s in quality. The 2000s had not yet been racked in November. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)