2004 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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Christian Serafin is one of numerous winemakers I visited in November who believe that the 2005s will be agreeable all the time, "like the '99s." He compared the vintage to 1985 and 1978, and noted that the 1990s remained closed in the bottle for a good ten years. Serafin produced a "good full normal yield" in 2005, picking fruit with potential alcohol in the high 13% to 14% range. By the way, Serafin, who is older than he looks, hired Pierre Nawrocki, previously cellarmaster at Domaine Hudelot-Noellat and more recently at Domaine Frederic Esmonin. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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Serafin told me that the 2004 vintage required a lot of sorting and a long time to pick (he took a full 11 days). Happily, Serafin's 2004s were not particularly reduced in November, even though they had not yet been racked. He planned to rack in February and then bottle in April. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D. C. )