Barossa 2022: Run, Don’t Walk

BY ANGUS HUGHSON | AUGUST 13, 2024

Is there such a thing as a perfect vintage? Where the sun shines brightly but not too brightly, and the gods deliver just the right amount of rainfall at the perfect time? Theoretically, yes, it is possible for a particular vineyard or microclimate. But in reality, the perfect vintage is a fallacy when we describe the goings-on for any decent-sized wine region, despite what some winemakers would like you to believe. There will always be areas that are favored and others that will be cursed. This is particularly true in recent vintages, where extreme weather events are becoming more common globally. And this is the story of 2022 Barossa, an outstanding Barossa vintage that was almost perfect and only spoiled by some unsettled weather caused by La Niña that hit some parts of the region. Two thousand twenty-two is an exciting vintage in many ways. It is pulsing with palpable vibrancy, ripe acidity and energy that will surprise many with its combination of raw power, focus and purity of fruit. Two thousand twenty-two is a contrast to the previous Barossa vintages that were of immense ripeness, extracts and flavors.

The 2022 vintage story began in dark times - Southern Hemisphere Fall and Spring 2020 - when the world was on edge. Conversely, the Barossa Valley received its first decent start to the growing season in terms of rainfall since 2018, which saw the vines slowly spring back to life for the 2021 vintage. The following winter and spring saw plentiful follow-up rainfall, far above average, setting the vines up perfectly for 2022. But, before we analyze the season, it is worth diving deeper into our current understanding of the Barossa.

Views over the Barossa Valley floor from Menglers Hill.

Revisiting Barossa Terroir

The Barossa is, without a doubt, one of the new world’s leading fine wine regions. Yet, various factors over the years have given the global fine wine market a narrow perspective, obscuring much of the region’s underlying story. When Australian dry red wines were flourishing at the turn of the twentieth century, the industry pivoted towards fortified wines to appease colonial masters in London. Mature Grenache, Shiraz and Mataro vines were loaded with spirit to keep the British happy and inebriated. Then, a hundred years later, the industry built a head of steam off the back of a wealth of old vine resources. This, again, took a wrong turn, prioritizing wines with a swathe of lofty scores that delivered luscious upfront fruit without the integrity and structure to compete at the highest level, often with short drinking windows.

There is little doubt that significant damage was done, and today, the Barossa image, in some ways, still struggles for the recognition it is due. Part of this is the strong cultural bias in some circles against New World wines, suggesting that they may lack genuine terroir and the nuances provided by minute changes in climate, soil and geography. Overzealous and egotistical winemakers can erode the impact of terroir–seen around the globe, although potentially more so in the New World. But this is becoming less of a problem with more transparent wines that allow the terroir to shine. This change is elevating the wines to new heights for regions like the Barossa Valley, where there are strong and distinctive terroir influences.

Like many areas in the New World, the Barossa is seen as a singular, homogenous entity where a generic vintage rating of Shiraz quality is enough to provide a full picture for any particular year. While the villages in regions such as Barolo, Bordeaux and the Côte-d’Or are revered, and their vintage attributes are well understood by the trade and collectors, the New World wines fail to have the same in-depth analysis. Some may not deserve it, yet the case for a similar approach in Barossa is strong. Ten years ago, Barossa Australia worked with various government agencies to perform a deep dive into the Barossa, and it uncovered staggering diversity on several levels. Local vignerons have always understood the broad differences between the northern and southern Barossa Valley combined with the Eden Valley. However, this was the first time climate, soil and geographical data were combined to provide a complete picture.

The Barossa is not a small region. Although less intensively planted, it is twice the size of the Médoc, with nearly 14,000 hectares under vine. An oasis compared to its surroundings, the Barossa Ranges and vineyard altitude provide a heat shadow and draw rainfall. The territory is made up of two parallel roughly north-south valleys at differing altitudes, which are split by a low range, with higher altitudes found to the east in the Eden Valley. Of the 61 soil types found in South Australia, the Barossa Valley has 33. It offers a complex mix of multi-colored sand, loam and clays punctuated by occasional outcrops of ironstone, schist and calcareous subsoils.

Water holding capacity is vital in this warm region, as is seasonal rainfall, which averages from 300mm to 800mm annually. Rainfall generally correlates with elevation, which is higher around Greenock and particularly the Barossa Ranges, plus much of the Eden Valley. In this dry region, water holding capacity combined with seasonal rainfall is particularly important to determine the quality of sites and vintages and the suitability for different varieties. The sandy soils of Light Pass are a perfect case in point, well matched to growing high-quality Grenache but less so for Shiraz. Grenache and Mataro are also better suited to hotter, drier conditions and excel in more challenging vintages for Shiraz. As such, these varieties can be the standouts for any vintage and are likely to become more common with warmer temperatures.

Superimposed over the impacts of rainfall and the soil’s water-holding capacity is the complex geography and effects of altitude on growing season temperatures, another critical component that underpins the quality of the Barossa’s various terroirs.