The Yin and the Yang of Western Australia

BY ANGUS HUGHSON | MAY 16, 2024

The state of Western Australia is a behemoth, stretching close to one million square miles, equivalent to nearly one-third the size of the United States. To the north and center are red dirt and dramatic arid landscapes, where the summers can hit 120 degrees Fahrenheit in the shade. In contrast, the Southwest is at the mercy of the ocean and the storms whipping up from Antarctica. Most of Western Australia’s finest wines emerge from this small corner of the state, some of them from surprising and isolated places.

Margaret River is well known to fans of high-quality New World Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. It is a stunning seaside region with rare biodiversity that produces wines with both generosity of fruit and genuine complexity, including some of the nation’s best. Yet Margaret River is among the gems found in Western Australia, with the sprawling Great Southern and nearby Pemberton having steadily developed a reputation for quality over the last two decades. Great Southern alone covers 1.7 million hectares, of which there are just 2,900 hectares under vine. The small quantities and remote destinations ensure the wines remain little known or understood, although not for lack of quality.

Tom Cullity planted the original vineyard at Vasse Felix back in 1967.

Diversity in the West

Despite their relative proximity, a short 200-mile hop, there are dramatic differences in terroirs between Margaret River and Great Southern, with Pemberton somewhere in between. A diagonal line between Margaret River and Great Southern splits the southern corner of Western Australia according to oceanic influence. To the west, the warming Indian Ocean holds sway, giving natural fertility and generosity to the climate showcased by rich forestry and vegetation among a sea of rolling coastal hills. The warmer days and ample sunshine provide perfect conditions, particularly for Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon to flourish. Margaret River’s southern zones around Karridale offer a unique counterpoint, producing tense Chardonnays and sparkling wines.

A very different world emerges further to the southeast. The Great Southern region is home to a distinctive Australian wine expression thanks to the Southern Ocean. A significantly cooler climate, matched with surprisingly dry conditions, makes the growing seasons a little more challenging. This is a wild place, so dry that some properties have vast areas set aside only to harvest precious rainfall. The almost arid and cool conditions offer a very special terroir with low disease pressure, allowing the grapes to be generally gently coaxed and picked at ideal ripeness. It also sees a change in grape varieties, which move more towards Syrah and Riesling. The vast diversity in altitude, exposure to ocean influences, and continentality ensure this region is successful with a large assortment of grape varieties, from Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon to Riesling and Pinot Noir, as unlikely as that sounds.

Soil influences here are also incredibly significant, as it is one of the oldest places on earth at 2.7 billion years. A deep bed of granite is at the core, which occasionally bursts through, most notably in the Porongurup Mountain Range, with ironstone gravels and sandy duplex loams also widely found. If there were to be a common theme, it would be a distinct minerality to the finest wines. Vineyards are still relatively rare despite some history, with the first vines planted in the late 1960s. The region's frontier feel remains, no doubt, enhanced by its location. Yet, at the same time, the quality of the best wines is undeniable, particularly for Riesling. The Rieslings from Great Southern are among Australia’s finest, right up there with the best examples from the cooler regions of South Australia. They combine rare focus and raw power with well-integrated natural acidity. Fans of dry European Rieslings will find plenty to their liking in Great Southern. The Syrahs, particularly in Frankland River, are also a specialty, although they provide an unusual and savory expression by Australian standards, which will appeal more to Rhône palates.

Pemberton sits between Great Southern and Margaret River, offering a happy medium. Before moving south to Pemberton in search of a site to produce Burgundian-styled Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Bill and Sandra Pannell were some of the first vignerons in Margaret River as founders of local icon Moss Wood. The Pannells were once part-owners of the Domaine de la Pousse d'Or in Volnay. The experience instilled a desire to craft something similar and chase Pinot Noir nirvana. This was not possible in the maritime-influenced Margaret River. In the years since, they have broadened their horizons into Right-Bank Merlot dominant styles. The Pannells were not alone with international experience - Quebecan turned Burgundian micro-negociant Pascal Marchand is also involved in projects focusing on Great Southern Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The fact that these highly remote vineyards attract some serious talent is a testament to their perceived potential.