2002 Haut-Brion

Based on the high quality of the 2004s I tasted during my early morning visit to Haut-Brion and the mixed quality of much of the rest of the Graves appellation, it's difficult to avoid the conclusion that the area of Pessac was more successful than the Bordeaux suburbs around Leognan. Haut-Brion's various red grapes were all harvested between September 16 and October 6, enjoying extremely favorable weather conditions (the white grapes were picked from September 6 through 20). The fruit was very ripe and high in tannins, and the team accordingly carried out shorter macerations than usual, with fewer pumpovers. The pHs, noted enologist Jean-Philippe Masclet, were virtually as high as those of the previous year, but the wines are fresher than the analysis suggests, with the tannins supplying the structure.

In the historic harvest of 2003, Haut-Brion began harvesting its white grapes on August 13. But in this very warm microclimate within the city of Bordeaux, even the merlot harvest began on August 25, and all the cabernet was in by September 15. While tannin levels and alcohols are high (about 13% for both Haut-Brion and La Mission), the pHs are hardly excessive; enologist Jean-Philippe Masclet noted that the vines did not really suffer from drought. The 1990 Haut-Brion, he pointed out, was more cooked in comparison to the 2003. Interestingly, the estate is high on the quality of its merlot in 2003; due to some coulure and the very small size of the grapes, the merlot yield was just 36 hectoliters per hectare. The young Haut-Brion, with a relatively high 58% merlot, boasts a thickness that reminded me of the extraordinary '89.

In the historic harvest of 2003, Haut-Brion began harvesting its white grapes on August 13. But in this very warm microclimate within the city of Bordeaux, even the merlot harvest began on August 25, and all the cabernet was in by September 15. While tannin levels and alcohols are high (about 13% for both Haut-Brion and La Mission), the pHs are hardly excessive; enologist Jean-Philippe Masclet noted that the vines did not really suffer from drought. The 1990 Haut-Brion, he pointed out, was more cooked in comparison to the 2003. Interestingly, the estate is high on the quality of its merlot in 2003; due to some coulure and the very small size of the grapes, the merlot yield was just 36 hectoliters per hectare. The young Haut-Brion, with a relatively high 58% merlot, boasts a thickness that reminded me of the extraordinary '89.

Thanks to its earlier-ripening site inside the city limits of Bordeaux, Haut-Brion enjoyed a somewhat more drawn-out harvest than most other chateaux in 2002, beginning to pick merlot on September 19 and finishing the cabernet on October 8. Acid levels were a bit high but the tannins were noble and ripe, reported enologist Jean-Philippe Masclet. In fact, the merlot was even higher in acidity than the estate's cabernet, noted Masclet, due in part to a higher percentage of millerande grapes.