1995 Haut-Brion
France
Pessac Léognan
Bordeaux
Red
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
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2024 - 2050
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This was a wonderful evening centered around some of the best Italian dishes I’ve eaten in a long while. Who knew that it would transpire, in all places, in Bangkok? We enjoyed a stellar array of wines, and more importantly, the guests really made it a memorable evening.
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2021 - 2045
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Jean-Philippe Delmas explained the uneven ripening that characterized the 1997 growing season as follows: "In winter we had spring, in spring we had summer, in summer we had winter, and in fall we had summer." The harvest actually began on August 18 for the white wines, and September 3 for the reds. The Graves received substantially less rainfall during the final third of August than did most of the right bank. Less than 50% of the crop went into the grand vin for both Haut Brion and La Mission, compared to two-thirds in 1996. Incidentally, Delmas prefers the '95 vintage to '96, "for its finesse and charm."
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The very strong 1994 vintage here was a hard act to follow, and the summer drought of '95 didn't make things any easier for Haut-Brion and La Mission. As I tasted through these two groups of wines, I sensed lower levels of extract, and fruit that struggled to ripen thoroughly. In fact, the merlot harvest in these vines did not begin until September 21—quite a contrast to '94, when much of the merlot was picked in early September, before the damaging rains. The '95s here are very good, whereas the '94s, white as well as red, are special.
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