2017 Haut-Brion
France
Pessac Léognan
Bordeaux
Red
53% Merlot, 6.3% Cabernet Franc, 40.7% Cabernet Sauvignon
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2027 - 2057
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2023 - 2055
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2022 - 2050
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This was the first year in a long time that I did not have to suffer the gridlock on my way into the city of Bordeaux to visit Haut-Brion. Jean-Philippe Delmas, self-effacing and affable as ever, showed me through the latest vintage of whites and reds that span Bordeaux AC up to First Growth. The city suburbs afford Delmas’ vines a slightly warmer microclimate that essentially threw over a protective cloak when frost threatened. “The vines started [their maturation cycle] in mid-March, we had a very warm and dry April causing acceleration in growth. The flowering, véraison and so forth were all two weeks in advance. We started the harvest quite early on 21 August for the whites. Because of the rain in the second week of September, 70mm from 8 to 17 September to be exact, it was the longest harvest for the reds, lasting from 31 August to 29 September, the Cabernet Sauvignon was picked from 21 September. The rain came at a bad moment for the Cabernet Franc and so we put in the garbage. Overall we had 20% less rain than usual and during July and August, 50% less. The huge storm in June gave us reserves for the summer. We had low levels of sun in July with few days without cloud.” Jean-Philippe Delmas told me that his team were obliged to do less sorting than in 2016 and that he is also practicing less green harvesting in order to keep a lid on alcohol levels, which have been comparatively high in recent vintages. Asked if the 2017s remind him of any other vintage, interestingly he answered “2001”.
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