2003 Haut-Brion

According to enologist Jean-Philippe Masclet, 2005 was a drought year but the vines really weren't overly stressed. The estate carried out a nearly normal eclaircissage and pulled leaves. "The vines really worked in 2005," he explained. "Although we actually began harvesting some merlot on clay soil at La Mission on August 31, we really took our time picking this year," Masclet went on. "We picked on the basis of taste, to privilege the fruit. There was no cooked aspect to the fruit in 2005." Still, at roughly 14% alcohol, the 2005 Haut-Brion and La Mission are the richest vintage to date for both wines. "We need to go back to 1961 to find such density of sugar," said Masclet, who then noted that the '61 Haut-Brion was still only 13.3% alcohol. The fermentation was carried out at lower temperature than usual (no more than 27oC), with less pumping-over than normal. At the time of my visit here, neither Haut-Brion nor La Mission contained any press wine. "We already had big material, an unusually strong combination of coloring matter and tannins," Masclet explained. "Adding press wine would have made the finishes too tannic." The 2005 Haut-Brion is a monument in the making; La Mission also holds out great promise, but was a bit less forthcoming in the early going.

Based on the high quality of the 2004s I tasted during my early morning visit to Haut-Brion and the mixed quality of much of the rest of the Graves appellation, it's difficult to avoid the conclusion that the area of Pessac was more successful than the Bordeaux suburbs around Leognan. Haut-Brion's various red grapes were all harvested between September 16 and October 6, enjoying extremely favorable weather conditions (the white grapes were picked from September 6 through 20). The fruit was very ripe and high in tannins, and the team accordingly carried out shorter macerations than usual, with fewer pumpovers. The pHs, noted enologist Jean-Philippe Masclet, were virtually as high as those of the previous year, but the wines are fresher than the analysis suggests, with the tannins supplying the structure.

In the historic harvest of 2003, Haut-Brion began harvesting its white grapes on August 13. But in this very warm microclimate within the city of Bordeaux, even the merlot harvest began on August 25, and all the cabernet was in by September 15. While tannin levels and alcohols are high (about 13% for both Haut-Brion and La Mission), the pHs are hardly excessive; enologist Jean-Philippe Masclet noted that the vines did not really suffer from drought. The 1990 Haut-Brion, he pointed out, was more cooked in comparison to the 2003. Interestingly, the estate is high on the quality of its merlot in 2003; due to some coulure and the very small size of the grapes, the merlot yield was just 36 hectoliters per hectare. The young Haut-Brion, with a relatively high 58% merlot, boasts a thickness that reminded me of the extraordinary '89.

In the historic harvest of 2003, Haut-Brion began harvesting its white grapes on August 13. But in this very warm microclimate within the city of Bordeaux, even the merlot harvest began on August 25, and all the cabernet was in by September 15. While tannin levels and alcohols are high (about 13% for both Haut-Brion and La Mission), the pHs are hardly excessive; enologist Jean-Philippe Masclet noted that the vines did not really suffer from drought. The 1990 Haut-Brion, he pointed out, was more cooked in comparison to the 2003. Interestingly, the estate is high on the quality of its merlot in 2003; due to some coulure and the very small size of the grapes, the merlot yield was just 36 hectoliters per hectare. The young Haut-Brion, with a relatively high 58% merlot, boasts a thickness that reminded me of the extraordinary '89.