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The harvest at Haut-Brion and La Mission began early by 2007 standards but lasted longer than usual, according to Jean-Philippe Delmas: from September 13 through October 5 for the red grapes. The merlot was finished by September 25, but at that point the cabernet sauvignon was not yet sufficiently ripe, added Delmas, who told me that the 2007 merlot does not have the "genie" (genius, or spirit) of recent years. His explanation: the merlot was further along in its evolution by late August and thus was more affected by the substantial rainfall at the end of that month. Among the standouts of my annual tasting here-an event that never fails to turn up riches-were the two splendid 2007 white wines, the 2006 La Mission and the 2005 Haut-Brion.
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