1998 Haut-Brion
France
Pessac Léognan
Bordeaux
Red
52.3% Merlot, 38.6% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9.1% Cabernet Franc (2023 vintage)
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2026 - 2060
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2018 - 2045
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Enologist and chef de culture Jean-Philippe Masclet compares the 2000 Haut-Brion to the 1990. "But the 2000 is fresher, like '98, while the '00 is more surmuri Still, the 2000 has the tannic sweetness of a vin du soleil." The millennial vintage featured superripe merlot with grape sugars in the 13.5%-14% range; the cabernet sauvignon averaged 12.5%, which Masclef told me was the highest ever for Haut-Brion. While the 2000 is a wine of obvious power, Haut-Brion is always difficult to taste at this early stage, and it is not yet apparent to this taster that the new vintage will surpass this estate compelling '98. Masclet agreed that they seem more or less equal in quality, but said he preferred the 2000 La Mission to the '98.
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Haut-Brion had harvested all of its merlot and cabernet franc before September 18 and 19, when four inches of rain fell on their vineyards. The cabernet sauvignon harvest then took place quickly, finishing on September 24, "but we certainly could have used a few more days of sun for maximum ripeness," notes Jean-Philippe Delmas. Still, he adds, there are no hints of verdure in the '99s. The winemaking team did a shorter cuvaison, in the belief that the riper grapes did not require as much extraction of color and tannins. The white wines of '99 are noteworthy for their extremely ripe sauvignon (even if the Laville Haut-Brion contains just 20% of this variety).
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The team at Haut Brion considers 1998 to be the most promising vintage here for red wine since 1990. Key statistics were similar to those for the exceptional '89s made here. The harvest of red varieties took place during the second half of September and was finished before the damaging October 1 rainstorm. The pH of the vintage was sound, says technical manager Jean-Philippe Masclet, and acidity levels were higher than average, giving the wines very good balance and grip. Polyphenol levels were markedly higher than those of 1996, but the tannins are ripe. The '98 grands vins have a bit more merlot than normal, while the second wines Bahans Haut Brion and Chapelle Haut Brion have a slightly higher percentage of cabernet. A bit of saignee was carried out for the cabernet franc used in Haut Brion and La Mission, but no other techniques were used to concentrate the juice.
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