2012 Barolo Monvigliero

Burlotto's Barolo Monvigliero, the estate's flagship, is the wine that gets the most attention at this small, family-run property, but the other Barolos are just as deserving of serious attention, something this tasting once again made very clear. Burlotto produces essentially two blended Barolos; the straight Barolo and the Acclivi, and single-vineyard Barolos from Cannubi and Monvigliero. In keeping with family tradition, the Monvigliero is done with 100% whole clusters. The other Barolos are made along equally classic lines, but with fully destemmed fruit. The explosion of quality here over the last decade or so has been truly remarkable. When I first started following Burlotto, in the early 2000s, the wines were all over the place. Today, they are absolutely indispensable for anyone who loves all that Piedmont has to offer, from everyday Pelaverga and Dolcetto all the way up to the Cannubi and Monvigliero.