South Africa: Where Are We Now? 

BY NEAL MARTIN | SEPTEMBER 19, 2024

From Bottom to Top

“South Africa is…”

“…not interested.”

“Oh. That’s a shame. Any particular reason why?”

“I hear the wines have gotten better, but you know how it is. Too much wine, too little time.”

“Before you nip off, can I ask, have you drunk a South African wine recently?”

“Only a bottle that a neighbor brought for dinner from the supermarket. It wasn’t exactly 100 points.”

“Hm… Low-end wines aimed at supermarket shelves are a minefield. There’s a gulf in quality between the bottom and top of South African fermented grape juice. The difference is that, unlike elsewhere, you don’t have to pay much more to upgrade from one to the other. If you are on a tight budget, stick to trusted growers such as the ‘Petit’ range from Ken Forrester or ‘Kadette’ from Kanonkop. You’ll find reviews of the latest releases plus others in this report that you’re about not to read.”

“I’ll let my neighbor know. In any case, I just can’t… what’s the word…connect with South Africa. It’s so far away.”

“South Africa is an isolated wine-producing country. The nearest viticultural regions lie thousands of miles away. That said, direct flights from the United States began last year, leading to an influx of tourists that was a knock-on in terms of winery visits. Nothing changes perceptions more than seeing a country first-hand. The country gets under your skin. That ethereal light, the Nature, the cuisine, the people.”

“I’ll keep that in mind.”

“Any other reasons why South Africa is not on your radar?”

“The wines are too cheap.”

“Too cheap?”

“Too cheap. I'd look a cheapskate if I rocked up to a dinner party with a Pinotage and other guests brought a fancy Bordeaux.”

“Even if it was great wine? A quandary that faces many winemakers is whether to increase prices not just for greater returns but simply to be taken seriously by those who misguidedly equate price with quality. One or two, like Tokara’s Telos and Capensis, which the Jackson family owns, have gone down that premiumization route. Why not? Personally, given the global economy and headwinds facing the wine industry, I’d maintain the status quo. Let quality win consumers over for natural and more stable growth, even if it is slow. In any case, surely the renown of winemakers such as Eben Sadie or Chris Alheit over-ride any lingering stigma against the country.”

“Come to think of it, I have drunk those before. I just never realized where they were from. To be honest, I sometimes spot South African wines on restaurant lists, but those Afrikaans names can be tongue-twisters. It puts me off. I choose something easier to pronounce.”

“That’s one aspect that could be improved. Winemakers are proud of their Afrikaans heritage. They want and should communicate that within wine names and labels. But it would be nice to see more translations or even just a symbol. I’ve come to South Africa for years and only just learned how to pronounce Boekenhoutskloof, let alone spell it. Sk'Windjies Vlei? Doesn’t trip off the tongue. It can disguise a fascinating backstory. For example, I never realized Eben Sadie’s lauded Mev. Kirsten was named after the previous owner of the country’s oldest block of Chenin until Sadie himself inadvertently mentioned Mrs. Kirsten. ‘So Mev. means Mrs.’, I thought to myself. There’s a human story there I had been oblivious to.”

Looking over towards Table Mountain from the balcony at Lukas van Loggerenberg’s home.