Some Great Reward: South Africa
Selected Producer Profiles
BY NEAL MARTIN |
Badenhorst Family Wines (Swartland)
It is always a pleasure to visit the irascible Adi Badenhorst at Kalmoesfontein, his farm in Swartland. There is something a bit chaotic about the place with demijohns scattered here and there. Badenhorst developed a wonderful infused vermouth that has been a great success. I remember tasting the assorted glass demijohns where he was experimenting with various botanical infusions. Of course, Badenhorst was a pivotal figure in the Swartland Revolution and remains one of its most familiar (hirsute) faces. With his manner so relaxed he might as well be lying down, not to mention what sometimes feels like an “anything goes” approach to winemaking, he is easy to underestimate but there is a sharp brain at work here and a talented winemaker. His joie-de-vivre is matched by business acumen that enabled him to transform and expand his winery. “We bought the adjacent farm and also lease another 18 hectares,” he explained. “We have 41 hectares of old vines and the oldest was planted in 1952. So, now we have 70 hectares in total.” I asked him about the 2016 vintage. “The vintage has good acidity, making tighter wines, whilst the 2017 has slightly lower acidity and more expressive open fruit.” Readers should watch out for a video that I made with Badenhorst during my visit that will hopefully give you a flavor of the man. His entry-level Secateurs range has been hugely successful in both domestic and overseas markets, here the 2016 Syrah is a standout. His 2017 Golden Slopes Chenin Blanc from granite soils and an excellent Cinsault from the Ramnasgras vineyard smote me. The Shiraz-dominated 2016 Family Red Blend is excellent and I quite enjoyed the chalky, almost austere finish.
Alheit Vineyards (Hemel-en-Aarde)
I first met Chris Alheit back when his maiden 2011 Cartology was in barrel, introduced by Peter-Allen Finlayson whose Crystallum project was just getting off the ground. The two rented the same wine facility together with John Seccombe of Thorne & Daughters. The winery has certainly expanded since I was last here with more space at Chris’ disposal. I find him in typically philosophical mood. “I have the feeling that chapter one is drawing to a close and 2017 marks the turning of a page,” he explains. “The 2017 has been the realization of the last few years. When we put 2017 Cartology together I was thinking it would be the last vintage. My wife and I talk a lot about making “origin” wine. I’ve thought a lot about Cartology that tends to be graded down because it is Western Cape [i.e. a multi-regional blend.] We learned a lot and learned about the vineyards that has helped us get to this point. We have plans to plant up in the mountains in Ceres. I got to know a farmer who planted Riesling for me in 2015. It’s a totally different climate. I believe we are just scratching the surface with the Cape. Ceres is very exciting. We now have five Chenins on different soils and keep the same approach: never acidify and never manipulate. I like a lot of fine solids in the ferments because they add dimension and structure and amplify the acidity. I like tannins in white – it gives them more-ishness.” Prior to my visit there was a great deal of hubbub about the quality of Chris Alheit’s 2017s and the speculation was well founded since these are stunning, quite cerebral wines. The quality starts from the labels, beautifully drawn and individually evocative of where the vines are located. From small beginnings, in just seven years he expanded his portfolio as he found new sites (with the assistance of old vine forager, Rosa Kruger) each with their own expression. The wines do need time to open up and I would even go as far to advise decanting them for an hour or two. These come highly recommended. Vinous readers can expect a more in-depth article on Alheit with a complete vertical of all the Cartology wines to date.
Some Vinous readers may have seen my shot of the vineyards at Ataraxia one early morning, the fog blanketing the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde valley under the refulgent sun. The tasting room stands alone against a stunning mountainous backdrop and this is where I met with owner and winemaker Kevin Grant (who has a passing resemblance to British comedian Harry Hill.) Kevin, who enjoyed a long stint as head winemaker at Hamilton Russell, is passionate about terroir and emphasizes that he sees himself not as a winemaker, but a “soil farmer”. “This is my 28th vintage,” he tells me. “The 2005 was the first vintage at Ataraxia and the 2018 is perhaps the most enjoyable. The un-wooded Chardonnay comes from very free draining granite and sandstone soils, whilst the wooded Chardonnay is from vines on Bokkeveld shale that are stonier with low vigour. The wines spend around five months on the lees in stainless steel vats, the Chardonnay is barrel fermented. Since 2016 was a warm year, for the first time there is no malolactic fermentation.” Kevin’s Chardonnay has always been the standout for me, unequivocally one of the best in South Africa and very Burgundian in style, seriously up there at Premier Cru level.
