Gavin Bruwer Slabbert was keen to emphasize a slight change in tack for the Bruwer Vintners Vine Exploration when we met at his abode on the outskirts of Stellenbosch with co-proprietor and his big cousin, Bruwer Raats. “We have focused on what is uniquely South African and incorporate that with a sustainable dimension,” he explained. “So, the labels focus mainly on the Polkerdraai. We are also taking a long-term view on Grenache.” This currently is blended into their Dry Red Blend, so it will be interesting to see whether they will eventually make a separate Grenache-based cuvée. He also told me that their Syrah was picked a few weeks after the rain at the end of March, preferring to wait it out rather than expedite the harvest. Judging by the quality of their Lone Wolf cuvée, it was the right decision.
The Cabernet Franc Vlag Vineyard Selection Polkadraai Hills is a welcome addition to the Raats Family Wines portfolio. As if Bruwer and Gavin needed another cuvée to prove they are masters of this variety. More exciting still is a brand new white cuvée under the Mvemve Raats banner. Hitherto limited solely to the brilliant MR de Compostella, their MR Vesperi, which means "evening star" in Latin, is a Bordeaux-inspired white blend of Chenin Blanc, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Trust me, this will sit comfortably alongside their Compostella, a sublime combination of varieties that is more than a sum of its parts.
From South Africa: Where Are We Now? (Sep 2024) by Neal Martin
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