A Revolution of Place: Argentina Classifies Its Terroirs

BY JOAQUÍN HIDALGO | SEPTEMBER 05, 2019

Until quite recently, one might have been forgiven for describing Argentina’s wine industry as a vast enterprise that made little distinction between different styles and terroirs. That is no longer the case.

When you get down to it, the issue is one of scale. The terms “Argentina” and “Mendoza” are the equivalent of the United States and California or Italy and Tuscany: geographical locations that don’t tell you much about the wine you’re drinking. One must examine the regions (i.e., provinces or states) more closely to get a more detailed picture of the wines being produced there. It is here, at this focused level, that diversity begins to blossom.

It’s a simple story. As Nicolás Catena, one of the leading winemakers in this corner of the world, is fond of saying: “When you mix the grapes, the quality levels out. When you split the land into parcels, you might discover a better wine or you might not, but you have to look for it.” A similar spirit is driving the Geographical Indication (GI) revolution taking place in Argentina – one in which the details count for more than the generalities.

Today, the great majority of producers striving to make quality wines in Argentina are engaged in a process of classifying, differentiating and parceling their regions, vineyards and wines. This means, of course, that their labels are also growing more complex. Whereas 15 years ago, the province of Mendoza (the equivalent of a U.S. state) or Luján de Cuyo (the equivalent of a county) might have been mentioned on the label, today the references are to far smaller areas such as Los Chacayes, Paraje Altamira or San Pablo.

Paraje Altamira vineyard looking south with white rounded stones

The Case of the Paraje Altamira GI

The first major step in this great and very recent geographic upheaval took place in 2012. At the time, a group of producers made up of Familia Zuccardi, Bodega Catena Zapata and Bodega Chandon decided to redraw the boundaries of a section of the Uco Valley – about 80 miles to the south of the capital of Mendoza – that is famous for the quality of its grapes and wines. This closely defined area was known as Altamira but was not registered as an official appellation for wines.