2020 Côte-Rôtie Maison Rouge

Christine Vernay and her daughter, Emma Amsellem, represent the 3rd and 4th generations of the family. Although famous for their Condrieu, the portfolio includes Côte-Rôtie, Saint-Joseph and IGP Collines Rhodaniennes. All grapes are estate-grown, and planting densities range from 7,000 to 10,000 vines per hectare. Their flagship wine is the single-vineyard Condrieu Coteau de Vernon, with only 2,000 bottles produced in 2021 due to severe spring frosts. Hand-harvested whole cluster grapes from up to 80-year-old vines undergo gentle, direct pressing and mature for up to 15 months in 15-hectoliter Austrian oak barrels, of which roughly 10% are new. Malolactic conversion is always carried out; Christine Vernay explained: “The grapes naturally don't have a lot of malic acidity, so we don’t lose much. In order to prevent the malolactic conversion from happening, a lot of sulfur would be needed because cold temperatures alone aren’t sufficient. Plus, sterile filtration. So, it would be very interventionist, which I don’t like.” Vernay also told me that, beginning with the 2022 vintage, there will be a change in the commercialization of the Condrieu Coteau de Vernon. “Up until now, we started to sell the cuvée shortly after it was bottled. But more and more we realized that as the year went on, a lot of additional complexity was gained. That’s why the wine will now spend one more year in bottle at the winery. Bottling of the 2022 took place in December 2023, and the wine will hit the first markets as of January 2025.” Although I’d have loved to taste some of the 2022s, Christine Vernay said that the wines aren’t ready yet. Instead, we focused on the 2021s, as well as the outstanding 2020 Côte-Rôtie Maison Rouge. While the 2021 Saint-Joseph Terres d'Encre and Côte-Rôtie Blonde du Seigneur didn’t leave a lasting impression, all 2021 Condrieus are singing loud and clear. To many readers, it won’t come as a surprise that the 2021 Coteau de Vernon is the wine of the vintage for the entire Condrieu appellation. Roughly 40% of all Vernay’s wines are exported, with the UK and US carrying the largest share.