1996 Côte-Rôtie Maison Rouge
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Vernay daughter Christine took over winemaking responsibilities with the 1996 vintage. In '97, the estate picked its Condrieu very late, beginning the harvest on October 1. The resulting wines, say Christine and her husband Paul Amsellem, co-manager of the estate, are atypically rich and strong for the year. They compare '97 to '47 and '49 for sheer ripeness, but note that grape sugars were more variable in '97. I did not have the chance to sample their unfinished Coteau du Vernon, as the estate does not usually show unfinished wines. None of the '97 whites went through malolactic fermentation. Because the fruit was thoroughly clean, some maceration pelliculaire was done. (Charmer Industries, Astoria, NY; Commandeur, Inc., Minneapolis, MN; Southern Wines & Spirits, Union City, CA)