1999 Côte-Rôtie Maison Rouge

Winemaker Christine Vernay and her husband Paul Amsellem still admit a special fondness for the very rich '97 whites made here, but they're also quick to point out that they have enjoyed a succession of good vintages since then. The 2000 harvest brought a somewhat smaller crop than '99 in Condrieu, but with slightly lower grape sugars. Here, as with many other white wines of the Northern Rhone Valley, and not just those from viognier, the 2000 vintage may have the edge for overall balance of fruit, alcohol and acidity, but right now the '99s offer more seductive richness. (Charmer Industries, Astoria, NY; Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; Southern Wines & Spirits, Union City, CA)

"Four straight good, ripe years in a similar register of aromas" is how Christine Vernay describes Condrieu since 1997. When I asked which vintage was best, both Christine and husband Paul Amsellem said they loved '97 for its richness. The domain Coteau de Vernon and Chaillee de L'Enfer Condrieus are fermented in barrel and undergo levage with their fine lees, which are stirred regularly for the first couple of months. This year I convinced Vernay and Amsellem, against policy, to show me the unfinished '99s. (Charmer Industries, Astoria, NY; Barrique Wine Imports, Chicago, IL; Southern Wines & Spirits, Union City, CA)