1998 Echézeaux Grand Cru

"The '99 vintage was difficult due to the long fermentations, especially for the Ruchottes and Echezeaux," said Marie-Andree Mugneret. "We used wild yeasts in both '98 and '99, but in '99 it possible that a good percentage of these yeasts were washed off the skins-or perhaps the yeasts were simply less resistant to alcohol." The Mugneret sisters describe the yields in '99 as no more than 10% to 15% higher than those of the previous year, as the mostly older vines in their cru holdings give more regular crop levels. This domain's wines have been of consistently high quality in recent years. (A Peter Vezan selection, imported by North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA; and Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY)

Christine and Marie-Andree Mugneret were among the first in the village to harvest in '98, beginning on the first Saturday under dry conditions. Grape sugars were fairly even across the domain's holdings in '98, said Christine, and pHs were healthier than those of the previous year, requiring less acid adjustment. But most of these wines were extremely backward in November, perhaps due in part to sulfur additions made in September. They will require extended bottle aging. The Mugnerets' '97s, beginning with a superb Bourgogne, are among the standouts of the vintage, combining the great ripeness of '97 with unusual structure and freshness. (A Peter Vezan selection, imported by North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; The Stacole Co., Boca Raton, FL; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; and Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)