1997 Echézeaux Grand Cru

Christine and Marie-Andree Mugneret were among the first in the village to harvest in '98, beginning on the first Saturday under dry conditions. Grape sugars were fairly even across the domain's holdings in '98, said Christine, and pHs were healthier than those of the previous year, requiring less acid adjustment. But most of these wines were extremely backward in November, perhaps due in part to sulfur additions made in September. They will require extended bottle aging. The Mugnerets' '97s, beginning with a superb Bourgogne, are among the standouts of the vintage, combining the great ripeness of '97 with unusual structure and freshness. (A Peter Vezan selection, imported by North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; The Stacole Co., Boca Raton, FL; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; and Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)

Christine and Marie-Andree Mugneret racked their '97s last April and again before the '98 harvest; they plan to bottle their wines in March and April but hastened to point out that the wines would spend their last few months in tank--to protect them against oxidation. Their top crus are quite strong for the vintage. The '96s here, bottled without fining or filtration, offer superb precision of flavor, with bracing acidity supported by ripe fruit. The distinct soil tones of the Mugnerets' holdings are beautifully expressed in '96. (A Peter Vezan selection, imported by North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; The Stacole Co., Boca Raton, FL; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; and Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)