2004 Beaune Teurons 1er Cru

Due to the dry August, the vines on some of this estate's hillside vineyards lost their foliage, and when the harvest began on September 16 all the fruit was brought in in three and a half days. Winemaker Geoffrey Choppin de Janvry showed me representative blends of his various cuvees; the finished wines will have 45% to 50% new oak. Crop levels were actually a bit higher than average, in the 42 to 42 hl/ha range. Alcohols are in the 13% to 13.5% range; Choppin de Janvry did a bit of chaptalization just to prolong the fermentations. Incidentally, this was the first year he vinified in stainless steel tanks, where the temperature goes down more quickly at the end of the fermentation. Choppin is also able to use these big tanks to assemble the wines, which makes working in the cellar much easier. Previously he had just three large cuves to work with: he would assemble three cuvees, let them settle for a month before bottling them, and then start again with the next three wines. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.) Also recommended: Beaune Aigrots (85).

Following a strict selection in the vines, this estate produced just 28 hectoliters per hectare on average in 2004. Oidium was only a serious issue in Marconnets, according to winemaker Geoffrey Choppin de Janvry, and the estate treated these vines via helicopter. Ultimately about 30% of the fruit was eliminated in Marconnets vs. 5% to 15% in the estate's other parcels. Grape sugars were in the 12. 6% to 13% range in 2004, said Choppin de Janvry, adding that he chaptalized the wines about a half-degree "just to prolong the fermentations. "The malos mostly finished in June and July, and I tasted all but the last three '04s from cuve, where they had been sulfited a month prior to my visit. Morot's top 2003s, made from grapes rich in sugar and without added acidity, have turned out splendidly. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D. C. )