2003 Beaune Teurons 1er Cru

Following a strict selection in the vines, this estate produced just 28 hectoliters per hectare on average in 2004. Oidium was only a serious issue in Marconnets, according to winemaker Geoffrey Choppin de Janvry, and the estate treated these vines via helicopter. Ultimately about 30% of the fruit was eliminated in Marconnets vs. 5% to 15% in the estate's other parcels. Grape sugars were in the 12. 6% to 13% range in 2004, said Choppin de Janvry, adding that he chaptalized the wines about a half-degree "just to prolong the fermentations. "The malos mostly finished in June and July, and I tasted all but the last three '04s from cuve, where they had been sulfited a month prior to my visit. Morot's top 2003s, made from grapes rich in sugar and without added acidity, have turned out splendidly. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D. C. )

Geoffrey Choppin de Janvry waited until August 29 to start picking in 2003.He found that the acids remained stable and the grape sugars rose slightly in the week leading up to the harvest, but that the grape skins gained significantly in phenolic maturity.He then did a shorter-than-normal cuvaison, with fewer pigeages than usual, but with fermentation temperatures rising to a normal 33oC to 34oC."There was a lot of acidity in the tiny berries that were not crushed," noted Choppin de Janvry, "and the acidity levels actually went up during the vinification."Beginning in 2002, Choppin de Janvry has used a pneumatic press, and in 2002 he did not include the press wine in the final blends.To date, the Morot wines have always been made from destemmed fruit, but there may be some experimentation with whole clusters in 2005.There are some standout wines here in both 2003 and 2002. Choppin de Janvry aged his wines from both of these vintages in 50% new and 50% once-used barrels.(Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)