2010 Pinot Noir Goldridge

Tom and Eva Dehlinger's wines stand out for many reasons, including their very fair prices. This year I thought the Syrahs were particularly of note. Yields have been down in the last few years because of a conversion back to cane pruning, but with 2011 yields are up to a bit higher than normal. The Dehlinger wines are beautiful, full of character and richly deserving of a broader audience.

Tom Dehlinger told me that he is "extremely happy with 2010" because there was " a convergence of power and elegance" in the wines that's rare and "a winemaker's dream." Now into its fourth decade of production, the vineyard, which started off at 14 acres and now encompasses 45, is being methodically being re-planted where necessary and in small parcels "based on what we've learned about what works where since 1975," Tom told me. While he will occasionally purchase fruit, "it has to be from somebody we see eye-to-eye with, especially when it comes to yields and picking for freshness; otherwise it can't happen, or continue." The Dehlinger wines age extremely well, a fact I was reminded of this year when Tom poured me a mini-vertical of his syrah. The 1992, the first bottling, is still hanging in there, with a mellow, smoky character, fading dark fruit and a smooth, velvety texture with some finishing dryness. Drink 'em if you've got 'em. The 1997, made from "very ripe fruit" according to Dehlinger, is drinking very well, with sweet dark berry flavors and energizing spiciness on the finish. Tom thinks that "it's in the sweet spot right now" and should be drunk over the next few years. I really liked the 2002, which is graceful, gently sweet and very precise, with a sexy floral touch and excellent persistence. The 2007 is still quite youthful, with a dark purple color and densely packed black and blue fruit flavors. The tannins are in retreat and there seems to be more than ample fruit to see it well into its teen years.

Tom Dehlinger told me that he is "extremely happy with 2010" because there was " a convergence of power and elegance" in the wines that's rare and "a winemaker's dream."Now into its fourth decade of production, the vineyard, which started off at 14 acres and now encompasses 45, is being methodically being re-planted where necessary and in small parcels "based on what we've learned about what works where since 1975," Tom told me.While he will occasionally purchase fruit, "it has to be from somebody we see eye-to-eye with, especially when it comes to yields and picking for freshness; otherwise it can't happen, or continue."The Dehlinger wines age extremely well, a fact I was reminded of this year when Tom poured me a mini-vertical of his syrah.The 1992, the first bottling, is still hanging in there, with a mellow, smoky character, fading dark fruit and a smooth, velvety texture with some finishing dryness.Drink 'em if you've got 'em.The 1997, made from "very ripe fruit" according to Dehlinger, is drinking very well, with sweet dark berry flavors and energizing spiciness on the finish.Tom thinks that "it's in the sweet spot right now" and should be drunk over the next few years.I really liked the 2002, which is graceful, gently sweet and very precise, with a sexy floral touch and excellent persistence.The 2007 is still quite youthful, with a dark purple color and densely packed black and blue fruit flavors.The tannins are in retreat and there seems to be more than ample fruit to see it well into its teen years.

I tasted a large number of wines with Tom and Eva Dehlinger, including several older wines, all of which have held up beautifully. These remain some of the most fairly priced wines in California. Tom Dehlinger describes 2009 as a very cool Pinot vintage. Dehlinger reports that yields in 2009 are down approximately 40% because of cold weather before and during bloom. The Pinot ripened evenly, and the harvest started on September 4th as opposed to late August, which is more typical in these sites, once know for their similarly early-maturing apples. In 2009 Dehlinger bottled High Plains Pinot separately rather than blending it into the Altamont, which is frequently the case, as it is again in 2010. Rains during the harvest were trickier for the later-ripening Syrah, which wasn't picked until October 20th. Elegance and freshness are the hallmarks of the 2009 Syrahs, which stand in stark contrast to the riper, more concentrated 2008s. Vintage 2010 is another story completely. The Pinot harvest was even later than in 2009, and didn't get started until September 22nd. In 2009 Dehlinger has several new wines, including a Zinfandel. Dehlinger made Zinfandel from 1975 to 1983. When the opportunity arose to purchase high quality Zinfandel and Petit Sirah, Dehlinger decided it was time to take the plunge.