1997 Beaune Teurons 1er Cru
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Following the tiny, very concentrated crop of 1997, this estate produced a full 35-40 hectoliters per hectare in '98, with grape sugars almost as high as those of the previous year. At the time of my November visit, though, Madame Choppin was still marveling over the '99 harvest, which, despite the huge size of the crop, brought sugars higher than in 1990. To concentrate one of her Beaune wines, Madame Choppin says she made a rose with 14% alcohol. The '98 Cent-Vignes had not yet been assembled in November. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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At this remarkably consistent domain, Madame Choppin '97s showed impressively well in January. These very rich wines, in many instances from fruit with potential alcohol above 13.5% (one cuvee came in at 14.6%, says Madame Choppin), were aged in a relatively high 60% new oak but, as usual, clearly express the differences between the domain several Beaune premier crus. The more backward '96s were tougher to taste, particularly in this frigid cellar, but clearly possess the flavor intensity and structure to be one of the longest lived vintages made here in many years. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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