2006 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
France
Pauillac 2ème Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
Bordeaux Blend
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2017 - 2037
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Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is arguably the single hottest château on Bordeaux’s Left Bank right now. Quality has been steadily on the rise for some time, culminating in a trio of spectacular wines in 2014, 2015 and 2016. This remarkable retrospective, many months in the making, provided a fascinating opportunity to explore the château’s rich lineage. I tasted all of the wines in this article with Glumineau and Charles Fournier, who serves as Pichon Lalande’s Head of Sales and Marketing. Glumineau organized the wines into two groupings. We started with younger wines from 2005 through 2016, tasted in ascending order, that provided a fascinating opportunity to track the evolution of Pichon Lalande, first under the Rouzaud family’s stewardship, and then in the years since Glumineau arrived from Montrose. The second flight started with the 1989 and moved back through series of older vintages culminating with the 1921. I can only describe tasting these vintages as one of the most totally hedonistic experiences of my life.
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According to technical director Thomas Do-Chi-Nam, "we obtained our objective of ripeness and sap in '07, but it wasn't easy." In fact, he added, Pichon-Lalande's vineyard manager, who retired this year after 35 vintages, called 2007 his most difficult growing season. With consulting help from Denis Dubourdieu, the team did much more "green work" in the vineyard than in past years-and everywhere, not just in certain blocks. "We had 80 people in the vines from April to August," noted Do-Chi-Nam. He pointed out that the vinifications here now begin with cooler vats, and thus the fermentations are slower to start. "As a result, we are now getting more fatness in our wines, and more floral character," he told me.
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The big news here is that Hubert de Bouard, owner of L'Angelus, was brought in to consult beginning with the 2006 harvest. Technical director Thomas Do-Chi-Nam gave a clear explanation of the challenges of the 2006 harvest. "In the hot weather of early September, some of the grape skins burned in the sun, and this made them a bit fragile and could have compromised some of the merlot in particular," he said. "Then the ripeness happened quickly in our various blocks." Do-Chi-Nam said the estate ultimately declassified more merlot than usual, opting to retain "the sappy, round, fresh lots." He noted that Pichon-Lalande had coulure in both its cabernet and merlot vines, so the estate began with 10% fewer berries in 2006 than in 2005. Production was a reasonable 41 hectoliters per hectare.
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