2016 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

Reviews & Tasting Notes

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Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is arguably the single hottest château on Bordeaux’s Left Bank right now. Quality has been steadily on the rise for some time, culminating in a trio of spectacular wines in 2014, 2015 and 2016. This remarkable retrospective, many months in the making, provided a fascinating opportunity to explore the château’s rich lineage. I tasted all of the wines in this article with Glumineau and Charles Fournier, who serves as Pichon Lalande’s Head of Sales and Marketing. Glumineau organized the wines into two groupings. We started with younger wines from 2005 through 2016, tasted in ascending order, that provided a fascinating opportunity to track the evolution of Pichon Lalande, first under the Rouzaud family’s stewardship, and then in the years since Glumineau arrived from Montrose. The second flight started with the 1989 and moved back through series of older vintages culminating with the 1921. I can only describe tasting these vintages as one of the most totally hedonistic experiences of my life.

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Pichon-Lalande is the single hottest property in the Médoc right now. Since arriving from Montrose in 2012, technical director Nicolas Glumineau has set his sights on improving quality, and the last few vintages suggest that he is well on his way to achieving that objective. In 2016, the harvest stretched out over an entire month, from September 20 to October 20. The wines came in between 13.1 and 13.3% alcohol, which is lower than either 2009 or 2010, both of which were close to 13.5 percent, and yet they have remarkable intensity, phenomenal balance and off-the-charts levels of tannin. These are among the most complete and satisfying wines of the vintage.