2001 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

Reviews & Tasting Notes

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"The 2002 is firmer, more classical Pauillac," notes technical director Thomas Do-Chi-Nam, "while the 2003 starts very seductive, then grows in the mouth." Interestingly, Pichon-Lalande produced 39 hectoliters per hectare in 2003, a healthy yield for the year, but only 33 in 2002. And the pH of 3.8 in 2003 is roughly equal to that of the previous year's wine (3.76). "The trick in 2003 was to know when to harvest each block and then to declassify the most tannic lots," said Do-Chi-Nam. Incidentally, the estate liked its cabernet franc in 2003 but was not crazy for the way it performed in the blend and thus left it out. On the other hand, 2003 was not a great year for merlot, noted Do-Chi-Nam, "but we needed the body and sap that merlot provides, so we kept the juice from our oldest merlot vines."

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The crop level here was just 33 hectoliters per hectare due to widespread coulure, particularly severe in the estate's merlot, according to technical director Thomas Do-Chi-Nam. "But we still needed to carry out a green harvest because some of the vines were carrying too much fruit," he noted. A relatively high 65% of the production will go into the grand vin, up significantly from 37% in 2001. All three of Pichon-Lalande's most recent vintages showed extremely well in early April.

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"The 2000 is a more massive wine while the 2001 is silkier and more elegant," notes technical director Thomas Do-Chi-Nam, adding that the tannin index was actually slightly higher in 2001. The latter vintage was harder to extract, and thus the estate did a longer maceration, with more pumpovers and delestage [a process whereby the juice is drained from the tank, then poured back over the solids]. The 2001 features a rather high 14% of petit verdot (along with 50% cabernet sauvignon and 36% merlot), which marketing director Gildas d'Ollone told me gives the wine more dynamism. "It's like adding lemon to the sauce," he explained.