1996 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
France
Pauillac 2ème Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
Bordeaux Blend
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2019 - 2045
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2016 - 2036
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This estate used the Entropie system in '98 to remove part of the water from rain-swelled grapes. Although the cabernets were picked in early October, the wine-making team was quite high on the franc, and the assemblage this year includes a full 15% franc to go along with 55% cabernet sauvignon and 30% merlot. Maceration was a bit shorter than usual for this vintage, and the percentage of new oak was raised to 65% from a more typical 50%. Still, the '98 Pichon-Lalande does not appear to have the opulence or ripeness of the best recent vintages.
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This chateau picked its cabernet sauvignon in '97 with the same grape sugars as the previous year, but with lower acidity. The '97 also features a relatively high 10% petit verdot, which was picked late and thoroughly ripe. The '96 Pichon-Lalande is shaping up extremely well, and the finished '95 is a knockout. The estate describes the '96 as "like '86 but much riper." The utterly silky '95, in comparison, is very much a merlot wine here. In fact, during the course of my tasting, marketing director Gildas d'Ollone told me that renowned Bordeaux enologist Pascal Ribereau-Gayon mistook the estate '96 cabernet sauvignon for merlot at a tasting of components, so velvety were its texture and tannins.
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