2017 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
France
Pauillac 2ème Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot
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2027 - 2057
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2022 - 2045
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2022 - 2045
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Construction time again. At least here at Pichon-Lalande it looks closer to completion, just the surrounding gardens waiting for their lawn. Since transferring from Montrose, estate manager Nicolas Glumineau, Bordeaux’s second most obsessive Robert Smith/The Cure fan after Bruno Borie, has been the impetus driving Pichon-Lalande forward. “It was a dry year. Except the rain in September the season was great. At the end of the day, the rain helped the Cabernet to finish ripening the pips. The key was to have a lot of pickers. We have around 150 and whilst waiting they do other tasks whilst parcels reach full ripeness. Hence the harvest lasted almost four weeks. There was 75mm in Pauillac compared to 120mm in Saint-Estèphe and that made a big difference, especially for the Merlot. We started picking on 7 September for the young Merlot and finished on 1 October. The Reserve de la Comtesse represents around 50% of the total production but I tell the technical team to approach the vineyard as if we make 100% Pichon-Lalande. Then for the blending sessions, we do everything blind. We were stressed looking at the health of the Cabernet but we found the tannins becoming finer and finer towards the end of the growing cycle. There is a saltiness on the finish of the wine that I find very appealing.” Readers should note that the estate takes samples from new barrels although it will not necessarily represent 100% in the final blend, but factoring in less oak, there is still no doubt that this will mature into a supremely gifted Pichon Lalande that will find many friends. Yes, like others it is not a corpulent Pauillac and those that relished the fleshy, Merlot-driven wines in the past may find it a little reserved. However, there is plenty of freshness locked into this wine, not to mention that lip-smacking salinity that Nicolas mentioned as he donned his Robert Smith fright wig and smudged his red lipstick.
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