2008 Barolo Bric del Fiasc

Enrico Scavino, who now owns vineyards in all of Barolo's most famous villages with the exception of Monforte d'Alba, has produced a lovely set of 2010 Barolos with an early balance that he believes makes them easier to like than the 2009s, which he says were tannic and austere at the beginning."The 2009s started out closed and tough as nails, which is nothing new for Barolo," he told me."In comparison, the 2010s are virtually ready to drink at the start."Scavino, incidentally, is another fan of the 2011 barberas, which he describes as structured and perfectly balanced, "but not with too much acidity."Scavino told me he is normally among the first harvesters, as he seeks "to preserve acidity and freshness."

There is always something new happening at Scavino, where Enrico Scavino, along with his daughters Enrica and Elisa, continues to push the envelope. This year the Scavinos have a new Riserva they are issuing to mark the 30th Anniversary of Bric del Fiasc, first released in 1978. The 2009s, 2010s and 2011s I tasted point to an estate working at a very high level of overall quality and consistency. Readers who want to learn more about the estate may want to take a look at my video interview with Elisa Scavino.

Enrico Scavino introduced a new open-top vertical vat in 2007 that keeps the skins submerged under a net throughout the vinification. The skins fall to the V-shaped bottom of the tank and are drained off. The result, according to Elisa Scavino, is wines that show more early richness and complexity. The Scavino family works with no fewer than 18 Barolo crus, bottling five of them separately, along with two blends. Elisa described 2007 as "a peaceful vintage, expressive and harmonious, like eating a nebbiolo berry." The wines are layered, sweet, fruity and harmonious, she added, while the 2006s are "brighter, more tannic, earthy and precise. But the 2007s will show more acidity and freshness in five years," she maintained. Two thousand eight, from a very late harvest, "is another fantastic vintage along with 2006 and 2010. The canopy stayed green and healthy and the wines have a lot of aromatic complexity. The wines are not as rich or opulent as the '99s but they are classic, and more balsamic than forward and fruity." Also recommended: 2010 Barbera d'Alba (86).