1996 Barolo Bric del Fiasc
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2017 - 2017
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I was perplexed by this showing of Scavino's 1996 Barolos, especially because these wines have typically aged very well. Multiple bottles opened at the estate suggest the 1996s are aging at a faster rate than they should. Some wines were totally mature, others less so. At twenty one years of age, it is hard to say if the corks used in this vintage were less than perfect, or if there was an issue with the wines themselves, but the bottom line is that there is no upside to be gained from cellaring the 1996 further. At best, Scavino's 1996s are more mature than most Barolos in this vintage, while at worst they are past peak. When I last tasted Scavino's 1996s, I thought they would be fully mature around now, and they are. On the other hand, the reality is that most 1996s have aged far more gracefully and still have long lives ahead of them. Holding the wines at this stage involves much more risk than potential gain.
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2008 - 2018
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We then moved into a deep selection of vintages of Scavino's most famous Barolo, Bric del Fiasc, which was first produced in 1978. The vineyard is located in Castiglione Falletto and the wines from this plot are generally the biggest and most structured of the estate's lineup. In important vintages Bric del Fiasc requires at least several years of cellaring. Today vintages 1989 and 1990 appear to still be fresh and youthful and my guess is that recent vintages will age at least as well given that they were made from lower yields and with a much greater sense of awareness towards other factors affecting quality.
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