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Giorgio Rivetti has another set of very solid wines on his hands with his 2005 Barbarescos. The wines have always shown terrific balance and are just a notch or two below his 2004s.
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Imagine my surprise when I showed up on Monday morning, September 17, and learned that Giorgio Rivetti had just finished harvesting his 2007 Barolo vines, with a crop level of just 20 hectoliters per hectare and grape sugars of 14. 8%. He was nearly finished with his Barbaresco vineyards as well, with only the Gallina still hanging. The key here is fully ripe fruit from very low yields, and Rivetti's concentrated, superrich style is highly popular in the U. S. market (he ships 65% percent of his wines to America and told me he travels here five or six times each year). Rivetti's Barbarescos and Barolos are aged in 100% new barriques, and the integration of oak requires him to begin with very ripe fruit and tannins. Rivetti says that 2004 is a special vintage with similar character to '96. "But the acids were a bit lower in 2004 and the tannins are riper," he added. He carried out three green harvests to keep the crop level to a very low 25 hectoliters per hectare. Incidentally, Rivetti told me that he won't release his 2006 chardonnay until at least 2012, as he feels that chardonnay from this region needs several years to express itself-a sentiment also voiced by Angelo Gaja on my recent visit. (Marc de Grazia; numerous importers, including Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; and Estate Wines Ltd. , San Rafael, CA)
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