2004 Barbaresco Vigneto Starderi

Imagine my surprise when I showed up on Monday morning, September 17, and learned that Giorgio Rivetti had just finished harvesting his 2007 Barolo vines, with a crop level of just 20 hectoliters per hectare and grape sugars of 14. 8%. He was nearly finished with his Barbaresco vineyards as well, with only the Gallina still hanging. The key here is fully ripe fruit from very low yields, and Rivetti's concentrated, superrich style is highly popular in the U. S. market (he ships 65% percent of his wines to America and told me he travels here five or six times each year). Rivetti's Barbarescos and Barolos are aged in 100% new barriques, and the integration of oak requires him to begin with very ripe fruit and tannins. Rivetti says that 2004 is a special vintage with similar character to '96. "But the acids were a bit lower in 2004 and the tannins are riper," he added. He carried out three green harvests to keep the crop level to a very low 25 hectoliters per hectare. Incidentally, Rivetti told me that he won't release his 2006 chardonnay until at least 2012, as he feels that chardonnay from this region needs several years to express itself-a sentiment also voiced by Angelo Gaja on my recent visit. (Marc de Grazia; numerous importers, including Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; and Estate Wines Ltd. , San Rafael, CA)

This is a very strong set of releases from La Spinetta and proprietor Giorgio Rivetti. The 2004 Barbarescos are easily the best of h is career. The wines still see 100% new French oak, but toast levels have been reduced and the Barbarescos now spend 12 months in oak rather than the 18 months they saw in previous vintages. Both changes have had a remarkably positive effect in allowing more site-specific character and Nebbiolo fruit to come through. The 2003 Barolo Campè shows that Rivetti is making important strides with th is wine as well. Only the 2005 Barberas are d isappointing, but that is not entirely surpr ising given the uneven growing season. In the past La Spinetta was an estate that relied just as much on style as substance. The 2004 Barbarescos, and especially the Starderi, are the first wines that truly live up to the glamorous image that Giorgio Rivetti has masterfully succeeded in creating.