2021 Haut-Bailly
France
Pessac Léognan Grand Cru Classé, Graves
Bordeaux
Red
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc
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2029 - 2055
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2031 - 2061
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Haut-Bailly endured a very tough year in 2021. Yields were 19 hectoliters per hectare as compared to the 40-45 we have in a good vintage," Estate Manager Véronique Sanders explained when I stopped by. "Frost took out 30% of the crop, hail and then mildew reduced yields by another 20%," she added. "We have 56 tanks in our new cellar but only used 13," added Technical Director Gabriel Vialard. The 2021s are intriguing, but also introspective wines that will need time to be at their most expressive.
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“We had everything during the season,” Véronique Sanders told me as I took a pew in the tasting room located in their new winery. “Budding was 18 March and then there was frost on two nights, 7 and 8 April, despite using three wind machines. The frost was different to 2017 as it was everywhere because of the wind, inflicting small damage across all parcels. Flowering was on 8 June, and véraison was late, around 24 August. The Médoc had more rain than Pessac-Léognan, a major difference, and overall, there was little rain throughout August and September, when temperatures were slightly warmer than average. The harvest was from 27 September to 11 October, which was later than in 2008 for example. Yields are still low due to frost and mildew: 19hL/ha compared to 49hL/ha in 2019. But that allowed us to reach the quality that would not have been achieved with normal yields. It is the first vintage to be vinified in the new cellar as in 2020 we only used it for the élevage. It was great to use the cool room to store everything we wanted. Every plot had a different yield, so choosing the perfectly-sized vat was a huge advantage. Many lots were fermented in 50-hectoliter vats. We pressed very carefully using a 500kg vertical press that takes 20 minutes, ranking them according to quality. It is one of the first times where we feel the pressed wine was important, a meliorating factor. Also, the tronconic-shaped tanks naturally enhanced the maceration of the skins, so we could be gentle during the cuvaison.”
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