1999 Haut-Bailly
France
Pessac Léognan Grand Cru Classé, Graves
Bordeaux
Red
Bordeaux Blend
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2019 - 2031
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Veronique Sanders describes the 2001 as a classic Haut-Bailly; the tough skins and small berries, she says, brought high sugars and acids and very good density. But she still likes the '98 best among recent vintages, followed by the '96 and '90. The '01 has 65% cabernet sauvignon and 35% merlot, whereas in 2000 the wine is a 50/50 blend.
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Of the last three vintages, 2000 is the densest, says Veronique Sanders. "The vintage offers a perfect combination of finesse and power," she added. "We picked the merlot first, then the cabernet eight days later, getting full maturity. In 2000, we had plenty of time, and the weather was on our side." Most of the 2000 went through its malolactic fermentation in barriques (this approach was used for the '98 but not for the '99), and the wine had just been assembled the week before my visit. Classic Graves.
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Veronique Sanders describes the '99 as a more classic style of Haut-Bailly, in contrast to the more concentrated '98, which is dominated by its aromatic merlot component and which was far easier to taste the spring after the harvest. In '99, leaf-pulling on both sides of the grapes for the first time helped the wind dry the grapes, and a severe green harvest further contributed to ripening the remaining fruit. Production has been lower in the last three vintages than in '96 and '95 as replanting, which will carefully match rootstocks to the estate's numerous parcels, is underway. The '99 consists of 43% cabernet sauvignon, 33% merlot, 6% cabernet franc and 18% "old vines"—a parcel of 80-year-old vines in which numerous varieties, including carmenere, are interplanted. Following three years in which the estate did the malolactic fermentation in barriques, Haut-Bailly switched back to the traditional approach with the '99 vintage. "Malolactic fermentation in oak merely makes the wine more presentable in March," explained Sanders.
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