2004 Haut-Bailly
France
Pessac Léognan Grand Cru Classé, Graves
Bordeaux
Red
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc
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2021 - 2040
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The cool August allowed the grapes to retain their aromatic potential," said technical manager Gabriel Vialard, "and then the heat in early September concentrated the material." Haut-Bailly benefits from well-drained sand-and-gravel soils, as well as deep roots, which absorb excess water less quickly. The estate picked about 50 hectoliters per hectare of fruit, then reduced the volume by carrying out a saignee of about 10% to counteract the effect of dilution from the rain. But it was not necessary to eliminate much fruit, general manager Veronique Sanders added. She told me she likes the cabernet sauvignon better than the merlot, thanks to smaller grapes and thicker skins, but the cabernet franc was eliminated from the final blend. Sanders summarized: "It's a vintage of the great terroirs, not of a particular sector or variety."
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With a moderate crop level of 41 hectoliters per hectare, Haut-Bailly did not need to do a saignee in 2005, noted Veronique Sanders-in contrast to 2004, when 10% to 15% of the juice was bled off. Sanders told me the estate's analysis of hydric stress showed that even the estate's young cabernet franc vines ripened well and did not dry out. The harvest at Haut-Bailly took just ten days, said Sanders, but the picking days were spread out over a four-week period lasting from September 14 through October 11, with most of the grapes harvested in cool morning conditions. The young 2005 is wonderfully dense and minerally, and likely to improve in bottle for a good 15 to 20 years.
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Haut-Bailly had just finished an extensive five-year renovation of the chateau and winery, and the property looked sensational in early April. Among the most important of the numerous improvements implemented in the new vinification facility and barrel-aging cellars was the introduction of many smaller tanks, generally holding 50 to 80 hectoliters, which are matched to discrete blocks of vines. Incidentally, Haut-Bailly is currently using about 50% new barrels; 70% of the wine that gets new barrels underwent malolactic fermentations in these barriques Veronique Sanders maintains that the lots that go through malo in barrel show better in the early going, but that the differences disappear by the end of the first year. The estate had just bottled its 2003 because they felt that it was getting oaky. I suspect that many other wines from this vintage would have been better off for a similar approach.
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