France
Pessac Léognan Grand Cru Classé, Graves
Bordeaux
Red
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot
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2021 - 2038
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"Vintages 2003 and 2002 yielded opposite styles of wine," noted director Veronique Sanders. "The 2002 is ripe but high in acid, while the 2003 is a round, charming wine, high in alcohol but not surmuri Actually, the 2002 summer was drier here than 2003," she added. The big surprise in 2003 was the quality and freshness of the merlot, Sanders went on. "We started picking on September 3, then picked like they do in Sauternes. We harvested for two or three days, then told our pickers to come back next week to pick the old vines." In fact, much of Haut-Bailly's merlot is on classic argilo-calcaire soil; this fruit is nearly always fresh, with a structure not far off from that of the estate's cabernet. Still, noted Sanders, 2003 is a vintage that calls for less oxygen during elevage "to avoid tiring the wine."
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Among the number of small but important improvements at this estate in recent years: more accurate harvesting, using smaller cuves for vinification; the use of a vibrating table, which in 2002 allowed the estate to eliminate the stunted millerande grapes and bits of stems between the destemmer and crusher; and less frequent racking of the wine. According to Veronique Sanders, Haut-Bailly did its normal cold maceration in 2002 but a very light extraction because the grapes were so rich in skin tannins. The young 2002, she says, has unusual density and structure due to the small size of the grapes.
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Veronique Sanders describes the 2001 as a classic Haut-Bailly; the tough skins and small berries, she says, brought high sugars and acids and very good density. But she still likes the '98 best among recent vintages, followed by the '96 and '90. The '01 has 65% cabernet sauvignon and 35% merlot, whereas in 2000 the wine is a 50/50 blend.
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