2017 Haut-Bailly

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Haut-Bailly had to deal with the sad passing of Bob Wilmers, the American banker who purchased the estate in 1998 and really turned it around, to become one of the most sought-after and consistent wines of Pessac-Léognan. I only met him properly a couple of years ago when I had lunch with him and his wife in London – a charming couple. Ownership has passed seamlessly to his son Christopher, but on the ground at the winery, there is no change with Véronique Sanders and technical director Gabriel Vialiard continuing to produce excellent wines. “Bud-break was on 25 March, which was early due to a warm spring,” Vialiard told me. “We were two weeks in advance. During the frost, the old vines were safe and so the blend this year comes from the historical plots since vines in the lower sectors were damaged, about one-third of the acreage. We did not use second-generation buds. Flowering was on 19 May, three weeks earlier than usual in a dry week. There was rain in the first two weeks of September, especially from 9 to 18 September with picking from 13 to 29 September. We used a robot, a prototype, to select berries...” Now, I have not seen this robot although, the actions of Gabriel Vialiard brought to mind some kind of multi-limbed, octopus-like automaton that selects berries at lightning speed. Certainly it would seem to have worked, judging by the sample of 2017 Haut-Bailly tasted. Like some of its peers, this is a more “solid”, linear take on the vineyard, quite a dense and swarthy wine that would suggest that it will require more cellaring than others, but also may possess the greatest longevity. I admire its precision and persistence – perhaps there is some semblance to the legendary wines produced at Haut-Bailly in the 1920s before the vineyard expanded?

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