2003 Haut-Bailly
France
Pessac Léognan Grand Cru Classé, Graves
Bordeaux
Red
56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc
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2021 - 2025
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With a moderate crop level of 41 hectoliters per hectare, Haut-Bailly did not need to do a saignee in 2005, noted Veronique Sanders-in contrast to 2004, when 10% to 15% of the juice was bled off. Sanders told me the estate's analysis of hydric stress showed that even the estate's young cabernet franc vines ripened well and did not dry out. The harvest at Haut-Bailly took just ten days, said Sanders, but the picking days were spread out over a four-week period lasting from September 14 through October 11, with most of the grapes harvested in cool morning conditions. The young 2005 is wonderfully dense and minerally, and likely to improve in bottle for a good 15 to 20 years.
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Haut-Bailly had just finished an extensive five-year renovation of the chateau and winery, and the property looked sensational in early April. Among the most important of the numerous improvements implemented in the new vinification facility and barrel-aging cellars was the introduction of many smaller tanks, generally holding 50 to 80 hectoliters, which are matched to discrete blocks of vines. Incidentally, Haut-Bailly is currently using about 50% new barrels; 70% of the wine that gets new barrels underwent malolactic fermentations in these barriques Veronique Sanders maintains that the lots that go through malo in barrel show better in the early going, but that the differences disappear by the end of the first year. The estate had just bottled its 2003 because they felt that it was getting oaky. I suspect that many other wines from this vintage would have been better off for a similar approach.
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"Vintages 2003 and 2002 yielded opposite styles of wine," noted director Veronique Sanders. "The 2002 is ripe but high in acid, while the 2003 is a round, charming wine, high in alcohol but not surmuri Actually, the 2002 summer was drier here than 2003," she added. The big surprise in 2003 was the quality and freshness of the merlot, Sanders went on. "We started picking on September 3, then picked like they do in Sauternes. We harvested for two or three days, then told our pickers to come back next week to pick the old vines." In fact, much of Haut-Bailly's merlot is on classic argilo-calcaire soil; this fruit is nearly always fresh, with a structure not far off from that of the estate's cabernet. Still, noted Sanders, 2003 is a vintage that calls for less oxygen during elevage "to avoid tiring the wine."
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