1996 Figeac
France
Saint Emilion
Bordeaux
Red
41% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, (2023 vintage)
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2021 - 2022
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The north end of Figeac's holdings (toward Cheval Blanc and La Conseillante) was hard-hit by hail on July 1, with the result that the overall yield in '98 was just under 30 hectoliters per hectare, according to Eric d'Aramon. The merlot was picked thoroughly ripe under ideal conditions while the cabernet franc harvest did not end until October 13. The ultimate blend includes a relatively high 40% cabernet sauvignon and less cabernet franc than usual. "The more cabernet sauvignon I added to the blend, the more interesting the wine became, the more Figeac," d'Aramon noted. "It contributed both opulence and elegance." Normal acidity levels in the cabernet also added spine to the relatively low-acid merlot, noted d'Aramon, who rates the young '98 ahead of '95 in quality but just behind the 1990. "It's balanced like '95 but at a higher level of fruit and tannic structure." I thought it was unusually fine for the vintage, and rated it among the three or four top St. Emilion premiers grands crus classes at another tasting the next day.
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1997 featured this estate longest harvest ever, according to Thierry Manoncourt. The team carried out three separate tries through the vines to eliminate less-ripe fruit, but the net effect, Manoncourt says, was merely to reduce a flowering that lasted five weeks to a harvest that lasted a month. "We began on September 10 and finished on October 10, but actually picked grapes just two or three days each week," he noted. The '97 contains a bit less cabernet franc than usual. "The cycle stopped too early for most franc to ripen completely," explained Manoncourt. "Our franc was aromatic but lacked color and density."
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