2010 Chablis Beauroy 1er Cru

Didier Seguir at Fevre was among the first producers to bring in his 2011s. The 2011 harvest at Fevre started on August 31st, the earliest harvest on record with the exception of 2003. Winemaker Didier Seguir was quick to add that 2011 was a precocious year, but not as shockingly hot as 2003. Early April and May were very hot, which led to a very early flowering, but then temperatures moderated in June. Hail at the end of June and early July affected Fourchaume, Vaulorent, Preuses, Vaudesir and Clos, all on the right bank, where production was down 5-30%, which placed yields at 40-50 hectoliters per hectare as opposed to the 50-60 that were obtained on the left bank, where hail was not an issue. Seguir lightly chaptalized some of the wines, and noted that the acidities came in around 4-4.5%, which he describes as moderate (along the lines of 2000 and 2002) and lower than 2008 and 2010. When the Fevre wines are young, they appear to be very tight and in need of cellaring. At the same time, it is hard for me to suggest holding these wines for more than a few years, as I have personally had a lot of issues with premature oxidation with Fevre wines from my own cellar. To be fair, since 2007 all of the wines have been sealed with the Diamant corks which are made from a combination of natural and synthetic materials designed to allow for the gradual exchange of oxygen that is so important for wines to age gracefully with more reliability than standard cork. The 2011 Petit Chablis was bottled at the end of April 2012, followed by the Champs Royaux in May and the Chablis (domaine) in early June. All of the other 2011s were still aging on their less in tank. As has been the custom here for the last few years, Seguir does a fairly short elevage in largely neutral oak that lasts 4-6 months, after which the wines age in tank. Note: the overwhelming majority of the Fevre wines are Domaine Fevre, but there are a few wines in this lineup that are made from purchased fruit. Those wines are identified as (maison) in the wine name. There are two bottlings that are made in both a domaine and maison version, the straight Chablis (I only tasted the domaine bottling) and the Montmains (I tasted both). The 2010 premier crus were bottled after the 2011 vintage, while the grand crus were bottled last December.

According to Didier Seguier, the extended flowering in 2010 featured a lot of coulure and millerandage, setting the stage for a loss of up to 40% of the crop (premier cru yields rarely exceeded 40 to 45 hectoliters per hectare, which Seguier described as very low for Chablis). During a hot July, there was little problem with vine disease, but rains at the end of August and in early September brought botrytis pressure. The estate picked during the last ten days of September, bringing in some of its best vineyards before rain began falling on the 24th. Potential alcohol levels ranged from 11% to 12.5% and some chaptalization was done. Seguier describes the wines as "classic, rich and aromatic, with good acid/mineral structure, but not austere." The post-malo wines have acidity in the 4.3 to 4.5 grams-per-liter range, almost as much as in 2008 and 2007. But one does not feel the acidity as much as in those earlier vintages, Seguier noted, because the material was richer in 2010. All the wines were in cuve on their fine lees since late March. Incidentally, William Fevre will use DIAM corks for all of its wines, including grand crus, in 2010.