2004 Chablis Beauroy 1er Cru

.My marathon tasting here was one of the highlights of my quick tour of Chablis.As classic as the 2004s are at this address, the 2003s are equally impressive for the number of wines that transcend this freakishly hot vintage.Incidentally, winemaker Didier Seguier was one of several Chablis insiders who thought the low vintage rating of 2004 published in the magazine Bourgogne Aujourd'hui was nonsense.He rates 2002 18 out of 20, while 2003 merits 14 and 2004 is a solid 16 (my own ratings would be quite close to his, perhaps a hair lower for the '03s).Typically, about half of each premier cru at William Fevre spends its first six to eight months in barrels before the wines are blended in tank and aged for another six months or so.In vintage 2004, noted Seguier, only 20 of this producer's 800 barrels were new.