2009 Chablis Beauroy 1er Cru

This is an impressive set of wines from William Fevre and winemaker Didier Seguier. The 2009 harvest began on September 14. Seguier claims the date of harvest has become increasingly important in recent years relative to the past, as warmer temperatures create a narrower window for optimal picking times. All of the wines at Fevre are partially fermented in oak, ranging from 5-10% for the entry-level wines up to 60-70% for the grand crus. Seguier prefers neutral barrels that are on average five years old. In general the entry-level wines are fermented with commercial yeasts, while the 1er and grand crus are fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wines spend four to six months in oak, and are then racked into steel for the completion of their élevage, which lasts about 15 months. The wines are aged on their lees with no bâtonnage throughout the entirety of this time. Approximately 80% of the estate's 50 hectares are farmed biodynamically, including all of the 1er and grand crus. The 2009 and 2010 vintages were not kind to Fevre in terms of production. In 2009, insects with very selective appetites damaged 20+% of the crop, while in 2010 yields were down as much as 50% because of widespread shatter during flowering. As is the case throughout Chablis, the 2009s look to be wines built on fruit that are best-suited for early and mid-term drinking. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, a vintage Seguier describes as more classic, with acidities that are in line with the estate's 2007s and 2008s. Fevre makes both a Domaine range and a Maison range. I have listed the wines separately for maximum clarity.

As in so many vintages here, Fevre harvested early in 2009, beginning on September 14, to preserve freshness and acidity, as well as to avoid aromas of surmaturite. In fact, winemaker Didier Seguier noted, the acid levels in the wines are now in the 3.8 to 4.2 grams-per-liter range, very similar to those of 2002 and 2000, and pHs ranged from 3.15 to 3.3. (In comparison, the 2008s carry pHs in the 3.1 to 3.2 range, with acidity levels in the neighborhood of 4.5 grams.) The 2009 growing season began with an irregular flowering and an attack of caterpillars, which cut yields in many areas, particularly on the right bank of the Serein. Many of Fevre's parcels produced between 30 and 45 hectoliters per hectare, which is a moderate yield considering that so many producers declared the maximum rendements of 54 for grand crus, 58 for premier crus and 60 for village wines. (Henriot, Inc., New York, NY) Also recommended: 2009 Chablis Champs Royaux (85).